I recently went to mainland Japan on business and was staying near Iwakuni, about an hour south of Hiroshima. A pretty and mountainous area on an inland sea. While there, I had intended on taking a Japanese hot bath, which has become a custom for me as I have found that it is a nice way to relax after a busy day. So, I asked about nearby baths or “Onsen” and was told that there was one in the central part of Iwakuni city on the river. It happens that this river is crossed by one of three famous bridges, all of which are national treasures in Japan. The bridge in Iwakuni is the “Kintai” Bridge and it is just below Iwakuni Castle, which sits majestically on a hill overlooking the river valley and town.

A fellow named Hiroie Kikkawa constructed the castle in 1608 but the current castle is one that was rebuilt in 1962 since the castle was destroyed in World War II. The rebuild, however, followed traditional building techniques and used only original carpentry tools thus making it a near perfect replica of the original. Armor of the Kikkawa family is displayed from the 1st floor to 3rd floors and the view from the observatory on the 4th floor is superb. The castle, called Momoyama Nanban-zukuri , is unusual in Japan and is considered an important castle both artistically and historically.

I was told that the hot springs/bath facility looked out over the Kintai Bridge and so I decided to go there. But, without a car, I would have to travel by cab. So, I packed my green laundry bag with a towel, bathing suit and shower clogs and asked if the hotel would call a cab, which they did. The nice lady at the hotel even went out and explained to the cab driver where I wanted to go. Someone else even drew out a map. Feeling quite comfortable, I left my Japanese/English dictionary and cell phone in my room and off I went.

We seemed to be driving a long time and the meter was building. Then, around a curve we came and there was the Onsen hot bath on the other side of the road. But, it was CLOSED! I had not thought to ask anyone to call in advance – a lesson learned. Plus, I realized that each time I venture out, I need to take the dictionary and phone since both would help when I get lost or something unexpected, like the bath being closed, happens. So there I am in the cab with no place to go. I tried to ask the cab driver if there were any other Onsen nearby. I did this by pointing in various directions and saying “Onsen” with each point. He did not understand and seemed to become more frustrated but at least he turned off the meter while we sat there. Finally, he pointed to a hotel right next to the Kintai Bridge and, when I asked if it had a hot bath, he nodded quickly. Off we went to the hotel.

At the hotel, there were polite hostesses in Kimono's and a doorman with a formal, black tie outfit on. This was an upscale hotel. I heard the cab driver tell the doorman “fixed price” and wondered why he was saying that to the doorman. The door was opened and I parted with a lot of Yen as I got out. There I stood in my new, Okinawa “Hawaii” shirt with my bag of what surely looked like laundry. I suppose I was quite a sight but the hostess would not let on that she was either amused or concerned. Instead, she pointed me to the front desk and escorted me inside. I asked the man there about their “Onsen” and he shook his head but pointed to the dining room and said “Fixed Price”.

Ahhh, now I know what happened. The cab driver decided maybe I needed to have dinner instead of a soak and so he took me to the nicest hotel in town where I could fend for myself. The man behind the desk kept gesturing towards the dining room and the hostesses also came over ready to escort me to dinner, Hawaii shirt, bag and all. It probably would have been a really good meal, but I told the man at the front desk that I wanted to take a photo of the Kintai Bridge and he nodded and gestured towards the front door.

Free at last, free at last, but what a sight I had before me! I was right at the Kintai Bridge on the banks of the clear waters of the Nishiki River next to the refreshing green Mt. Shiroyama with Iwakuni Castle at its top. This was a very pretty sight indeed. The graceful, five-arched Kintai Bridge seems to step right out of history. The original bridge, which has been rebuilt five times, was constructed over three hundred years ago and has proudly symbolized both the beautiful and magnificently-situated Iwakuni castle as well as the town which surrounds it. The bridge is 210 meters long, 5 meters wide, and was built without the use of a single nail, employing only clamps, and wire. It has five arches and is made entirely of wood. No traffic is allowed on the bridge and only pedestrians walk peacefully across it. The structural idea for the bridge is said to have come from stories by a Chinese priest of the Ming Dynasty who settled in Japan and told peoples of the area about the arch-type, stone bridges of China. Hence, when the bridge was constructed, it used this arch-type design.

I walked across it and took pictures. Just to the other side, and on the flood plain below the castle, is an old village that looks like it has been restored. Some of the structures indicate that they were built in the 1500's and earlier. At one point in my wanderings, I came upon an engraved stone with the engraved face of a Japanese soldier above it. No doubt a war memorial to the soldiers of the time. The stone was engraved with musical notes and I studied them trying to imagine the tune. At this time, the Cicada were loudly chirping but soon, I heard the famed Japanese Koto stringed instrument playing and turned to my right to see the smiling face of an elderly grandfather holding his granddaughter and pointing to a red button and a nondescript box. This was a recording of the music on the engraved stone. This was a beautiful moment for me being serenaded by the chirping Cicada all around which were accompanied by this lovely Japanese Koto music. I listened to this chorus several times as the sun set behind the tall hill illuminating the castle high on the ridge.

Still affected by the peaceful music and insect noises, I wandered back across the bridge in the twilight. A lovely, tranquil evening. So, I was actually happy at this turn of events since I discovered some new and interesting things.

Once across the bridge, I had no idea how to get back to the hotel nor did I have the name of where I needed to go in Japanese. But, as I came down the last of the five arches, a man stepped out of nowhere and gestured towards a cab that seemed to be waiting for me, its door open. Fate was at hand and I felt that it was time to go. The cab driver knew where I was going and we went there straightaway and at a much lesser Yen expense than the first cab driver had charged me.